Natural History Museum

Initial scepticism clouded my first visit; it was a place to hide out of the rain or to kill a few minutes after visiting the Science Museum next door. However I’ve since visited twice more in quick succession to try and take in the enormity and variety of the place: true the cabinets of gemstones and metals are purely there to guide one towards the meteorite fragments and there’s only so much of stuffed animals you can take – strong and interested constitution notwithstanding. It is that variety that holds the attention though; the Planet Earth exhibitions are superb and bang up-to-date for environmentally-aware (if not particularly active) 2007.

Two highlights stick out though: firstly the architecture, so often my Achilles heal when I should be admiring the contents of a museum, is stunning. Internal brickwork and tiles that are carved with leaves and animals: that’s inspiring detail.

The second was in less auspicious surrounding but no less fascinating. The emerging Darwin Centre for the active research the Museum (and other visiting scientists) is right next door and the subject of a dedicated, free, tour. Those with a weak stomach or mind are quickly despatched with the first stop. Ever wondered how those skeletons are prepared for show, how they’re so… errr… clean? Well with the exception of dinosaurs who have a couple of millennia to decompose it doesn’t happen overnight without a little help. Cue the Darwin Centre’s colony of flesh eating beetles who can tear through a bone or two in a few days leaving it pristine and less…. errr…. fleshy.

Once we’d returned from letting a couple of the tour out we got onto the jars. Library archive-style cabinets of jars and jars and jars of everything, everything that we know of at least. The most spectacular space was the one that reeked of alcohol and formaldehyde (though probably not the latter or we wouldn’t have lived very long). Real specimens or real fish, snakes, monkeys; where things didn’t fit into jars naturally there’s an element of ‘folding’ or separation involved. Part of this collection is ‘Archie‘, a giant squid for which a special perspex case had to be constructed using techniques developed a la Damien Hirst. Though now probably trumped by the recent haul of a colossal squid near New Zealand this is an eye opener, literally. The immense size of the eyes, the viciousness of the sharp suckers.

Of greater interest even that this were some of the canopic jars from a certain Mr Darwin on his beagle voyage; yes, the Darwin, yes some of his specimens. The importance of these examples historically cannot be understated, unless you live in certain parts of the US of course.

Maybe it’s my (comparative!) ignorance in this particular field but the Museum is one not to simply walk round but one to be introduced to. Don’t necessarily be seduced by the (expensive) animatronic exhibition or whatever is flavour of the day; take a tour, don’t miss the architecture and be prepared to return.

Imperial War Museum

The IWM London has long been one of my favourite museums even though it may sound a rather morbid thing to admit. It’s sympathetic, educational, moving, powerful.

The post-1945 galleries taught me things about Cold War campaigns I didn’t know from History GCSE or International Relations degree paper. The Holocaust exhibition drives people to silence, awe and tears. It’s superb, it’s a must-see, it’s important.

Uncommonly beautiful

The pond on the Common is now considerably healthier than the drip that remained last summer. Still, even in early March it was warm enough to saunter alongside at sunset.

And what a sunset.

British Museum

Unsurprisingly one of the first questions levelled at my tour guide was on the rights and wrongs of the venerable British Museum keeping the Elgin Marbles. They’ve obviously become accustomed to dealing with the question and the museum’s policy and justification is well-rehearsed and confidently delivered.

Aside from well-documented claims to the Marbles, part of the answer begs the wider question. What would a world where all antiquities rested in their original country of origin look like? What would that do for preservation, for education, for understanding? That said, I can’t but help feel a slight uncomfortable twinge that we make that argument from a position of great empirical strength in our collections.

The Museum is impossible large and diverse; from my personal point of view not necessarily engaging on its own. It needs the tour guide to bring context and stories alive. Stones with labels alone don’t keep my attention for long.

I have a slightly guilty admission; I’m as enthralled by the architecture as I am by the exhibits. Nothing particularly exceptional about the outside though living in London makes you a little blasé about the scale and quality of such buildings.

Inside however the Great Court is, well, inside. The Foster-designed glass roof is astonishingly impressive covering the refurbished library and new, if rather over-priced, restaurant. The library reminded me of Magdalen’s Grove Quad; classic in design but a bit too clean. Give both 50 years and they’ll be perfect.

Two hours of tour and we’ve only scratched the surface of a few countries’ bounty and a mere couple of centuries making a return visit (or 6) inevitable and essential.

I spy

Just found this live webcam of Wimbledon town centre – surprisingly good refresh rate compared to those city cameras in the old narrow-band world. Click here to get a live view looking towards the centre from Wimbledon Hill Road; the camera is near Ely’s department store and the train station is on the left past the traffic lights.

New home

I’m still in SW19 but I’m also now here on WordPress, leaving Blogger behind with a smile on my face. More regular updates to follow.

Science Museum

Appropriate that I should start with the Science Museum; after all this is one of the first museums I visited in London nearly 20 years ago and which probably has the greatest longevity given my pent-up scientific interest.

Such a shame then that high expectations weren’t met. I went along just before Christmas and found section after section closed, even parts of the new Wellcome Wing, the rest of which has started to look decidedly grubby despite (or perhaps because of) its ultra-modern futuristic design.

Perhaps the greatest disappointment was that it’s becoming very difficult to actually learn anything there and I don’t believe that’s because of my own knowledge. Exhibits seem to fall into one of two camps:

1. modern interrogative exhibits, provoking questions of genetics, medical ethics, evolution such as in the afore-mentioned Wellcome Wing but without any real narrative. Absolutely perfect for school parties as an aide to discussion and teacher-led visits; pretty pointless and frustrating for anyone else.
2. display cases that simply label mathematical instruments or models of ships without providing any story.

These combined with a Communications gallery that stops with the introduction of the pager and an Optics gallery that’s closed altogether made for this to be my last visit for a while. I even paid for the exhibition on the development of video gaming, ‘antique’ computing being a bit of a sideline interest. This was no more than a token nod to the history, technology and culture of gaming though – primarily an excuse for kids to play on old consoles and give me a headache as I wandered through looking for some intellectual stimulation. Even the pachinko machine was for display purposes only… still I’m denied a play on one of those things.

Shhhhhhh

I realise I haven’t been particularly active on the London blogging front; I have, however, been considerably more active in taking advantage of the capital’s museums and galleries recently.

So to make amends for the former and to document the latter I’ll be posting a few photos and comments here over the next few weeks from my visits. Watch this space. And keep your voice down.

Diplomacy by design

If you had to guess which country had the most stylish building as its embassy, who would it be? The French, the Italians, the Americans?

Actually no suprise that, in my opinion, it goes to the Danes. With a slate black facade, pod-shaped windows and a subtle splash of greenery this really is an architectural revelation on Sloane Street opposite the private gardens.

If you’ve seen a more impressive or distinctive candidate on the streets of London, let me know….

Pottering down the Thames

The teaser trailer for the next Harry Potter film was released yesterday: with some trepidation in fear of disappointment I waited for the download.

Any anxiety was quickly put to one side with scenes of broomsticks chasing down the Thames, past Canary Wharf and Parliament. Not sure whether it’ll trump the opening scene from ‘The World is not Enough‘ but it can’t be a bad addition to the film.